Ainsworth Hot Springs November 2024
The day after Thanksgiving, Wave and I ditched the turkey and leftovers, leaving my sister and our three-legged dog, Rusty, to their own devices. Erika and Rusty, bonded over nightly ham treats, were more than happy to let us escape while they tackled the ham carcass.
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| Rusty Post-Ham |
While Ainsworth Hot Springs, BC, is only 392 miles—less than a five-hour drive—it had always felt like an "almost" trip: close but never quite close enough. Considering I’ll zip down to Portland, Oregon, on a whim—a five-hour trek in the opposite direction—it seemed ridiculous that we hadn’t ventured north before. So off we went.
From the moment we left Spokane and entered the evergreen embrace of North Washington, the trip promised good things.
Oakesdale to Ainsworth
We drove through the stunning Colville National Forest and made a nostalgic detour to West Sullivan Lake near Metaline Falls, a cherished camping spot from my twenties. Back then, it was accessible only by horseback or river expeditions. Now, it’s a picturesque area, known for its charming architecture and as the filming location for Kevin Costner’s The Postman.
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| West Sullivan Lake |
At West Sullivan Lake, I learned the unspoken rules of coexistence with mama bears and experienced the eerie speed of a cougar darting past my campfire—an event that still makes me question reality.
After a quick lunch of turkey sandwiches and hot tea by the lake, we pressed on, crossing the border at the Metaline Falls-Nelway checkpoint. Note for travelers: Border agents are immune to charm. Skip the small talk, state your purpose, and move along.
Nelson and Beyond
Our next stop was Nelson, a quaint, bustling ski town with adorable shops. While I did snag some cute socks, Nelson’s retail buzz wasn’t what we’d come for. We wanted to soak, not shop.
By 3:00, we arrived at Ainsworth, and it exceeded expectations. According to my trusty AI pal (let’s call him Bob), the Ktunaxa First Nations originally used these hot springs for healing and rejuvenation. In 1883, George Ainsworth, a Portland steamboat captain, claimed the land, naming it after his family. Later, in the 1920s, John Burns developed it into a commercial attraction. Today, the springs are owned by Yaqan Nukiy, the Lower Kootenay Band of Creston, BC.
THEN....
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| courtesy of https://www.ainsworthhotsprings.com |
A Tiny Town with Big Charm
Once home to nearly 3,000 people, unincorporated Ainsworth now boasts a population of just 20. The pools, while simple, are fed by mineral-rich waters, and the attached cave is the real highlight.
Into the Caves
For a claustrophobe like me, stepping into the hot, humid caves felt like entering the Mines of Moria. I half-expected to yell, “Speak, friend, and enter!” but signs outside the entrance firmly banned chanting and moaning. That didn’t stop a man from attempting Mongolian throat singing in the back of the cave, which provided unexpected entertainment.
The cave features hidden alcoves, benches, and trickling waterfalls. But beware: no matter how adjusted your eyes think they are, you’ll never spot the stealthy soakers tucked into shadowy pools. Twice, I almost collided with fellow bathers—one encounter nearly resulted in an accidental kiss until the startled man raised his hand and exclaimed in a thick Italian accent, “No, no… t’is cave is occupé!”
The Plunge Pool
Ainsworth also boasts a cold plunge pool that ranges from brisk to downright freezing. As seasoned plungers—thanks to monthly Big Creek dips—we thought we were pros, but this pool was humbling. A German woman emerged as the weekend’s hero, lasting a giggly 12 minutes in the icy water. Her cheerleading inspired others to push their limits, both in the plunge and within the caves.
Day 2: Exploring
This was the day I was waiting for. After a refreshing morning dip in the pool, Wave and I set off on a road trip deep into the Selkirk Mountains. Our agenda? Explore small towns, take delightfully terrible selfies, and play our favorite road trip game: searching for our fantasy home. The rules are simple: during each trip, we each scout for the perfect dream home. My must-haves? Big windows and an open sky. Wave’s list? Trees and cozy vibes. Our shared non-negotiable? Water. It’s a fun challenge to find something that satisfies both our wish lists, and this time, we hit the jackpot early—in a charming place called New Denver.
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| Dream Home |
This gem had it all: expansive windows, a warm, cozy interior, and it was perched right on the edge of Kootenay Lake. Unfortunately, it also had owners. (Rude.) I’m sure they’re lovely people, living their best lives in our house. As Wave said, “It’s not like we can pick up the farmland and move it north.” To which I replied, “Have you ever tried?”
Dream denied. But as we continued north, I discovered my next obsession: the picturesque town of Kaslo, BC. Heaven help me—forget moving the farmland. I’ll take Kaslo just as it is.
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| 19 miles north of Ainsworth Kaslo, BC Kaslo, BC Nineteen miles north of Ainsworth lies my soulmate of a town. I’ll keep this brief because you probably have a life and road trip plans of your own (which you absolutely should—Kaslo demands a visit). First stop: Eric’s Big Meat (locally known as Eric’s Meat Market). Grab a warm maple pork loin for the road and prepare to ascend to carnivore heaven. That pork loin was hands down the best piece of meat I’ve had in ages. (Apologies to Wave—note the blog title.) |
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| Eric's Big Meats |
Next up, Theresa’s Coffee Shop, affectionately dubbed (by moi) “The Local Gossipy Ladies Coffee Spot.” Skip the more “citified” options in town and settle into Theresa’s for coffee, scones, and a side of spirited local drama. Within minutes of walking in, we’d caught up on the post office strike, local politics, and who’s doing what with whom. It was pure gold. The coffee? Delicious. The scones? Divine. The atmosphere? Worth every mile.
Kaslo’s other highlights include adorable shops, breathtaking views, fascinating history, and the sheer novelty of pumping propane at the local gas station. Can you tell I’m smitten?
When the day wound down, Wave gently reminded me it was time to head back to Ainsworth. Though I hesitated to leave the mountains, I was tempted by one last stop: the JB Fletcher Museum. Like most ignoramuses, I assumed it was dedicated to Jessica Fletcher of Murder, She Wrote fame. (No one else thought that?) Alas, it’s actually a restored general store from 1896, complete with all its original furnishings and fixtures. The curator was a delight, chatting with us so warmly that we felt like family. If you visit, please donate—this charming museum relies on contributions, and it deserves to thrive.
Day 3 - On the Road again!
Final thoughts before leaving paradise:
1. Old World Bakery:
Don’t miss the Old World Bakery in Balfour. On our way up, we skipped it due to its less-than-polished curb appeal (think “We Are Open” spray-painted on OSB board across a broken window). Big mistake. On the way back, we stopped, and Wave declared their pastries the best he’s ever eaten. And we’ve eaten a lot of pastries.
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| Old World Bakery - "Best Pastries Wave has ever eaten." |
2. Jimmy's Pub and Grill in Creston, BC:
Before reluctantly crossing back into the lower 48, we had a farewell lunch at Jimmy’s Pub and Grill in Creston, BC. Why is everyone in Canada so kind? And how is all the food this good? Jimmy’s is a must-stop—perfect for drowning your sorrows over leaving a country that doesn’t want to keep you. As I walked out, I spotted a sign that made me laugh and gave me the strength to head down the mountain:
Hangover Cures
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| Cheers! Choice #1: Armpit Lemon: Puerto Ricans swear by putting lemons in the armpits. Choice #2: Black Pins: Voodoo ritual claims that 13 black pins into the cork of the bottle that cursed you... Mama is going to need those as I drive out of these beautiful mountains and back to the Palouse. |
Final Thoughts
For each trip, Wave and I make a soundtrack to fit the occasion. Here is the link to the "W &A's Trash-talking Travel Playlist."
Ainsworth Hot Springs delivers on every level: adventure, relaxation, and a healthy dose of humor. If you’re craving a getaway that blends stunning scenery with soothing vibes, it’s absolutely worth the trip. Just watch out for those close encounters in the dark!
Cheers, and happy travels!
Wave and Amy
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